New Haven / New York Hybrid Pizza

This has been the recipe I've come back to most over the last few years, and one that I've been tweaking since 2021. It's crunchy, chewy, and chars nicely like a New Haven–style pizza, but with a crust, fluffiness, and density similar to a New York–style.

About this recipe

This recipe was originally derived from the legendary Apizza Scholls in Portland, OR. The restaurant occasionally posts their current recipe on Instagram, but it's for a full restaurant-size batch.

When I first developed this recipe, I used standard commercial yeast but have since adapted it for sourdough. Both versions are provided below, but I highly recommend the sourdough version if you have the time and a starter on hand.

The dough

Most New Haven pizza shops use a high-hydration dough¹ in the 67–70% range, while most New York–style dough sits in the 55–60% range. With higher hydration, New Haven dough can be tricky to work with and shape, so I lower the hydration slightly and add a small percentage of high-gluten flour. For this recipe, I've found that 62–65% hydration is ideal for a crispy and chewy yet soft dough. Depending on the flour(s) you choose, you may want to experiment with a slightly higher hydration than the 63% in this recipe but I find it to be a sweet spot for most cases.

Using about 7–8% high-gluten flour helps achieve that New York–style texture, compared to a typical all–bread flour mix found in traditional New Haven–style recipes.

Notes on flour

From my research, Apizza Scholls likely uses Keith's Best flour from Central Milling. While you can order this online from Central Milling, they only sell 50lb bags, so I often use Central Milling's Organic Artisan Bakers Craft Plus Bread flour instead. It's similar and fairly easy to find in the Bay Area (and online). I've also had good results with Giusto Ultimate Performer and King Arthur Bread Flour.

Regardless of brand, I always use flour that is minimally processed, non-GMO, unbleached, and contains no bromate . For added chew, this recipe also uses high-gluten flour (King Arthur's version is commonly available; I also like Central Milling's Organic High Mountain ).

Flour variations: I've explored adding small percentages of whole wheat, spelt, rye, and bolted flours like Cairn Spring's Trailblazer Bread Flour with good results. These help with fermentation and add flavor to the crust. I'd recommend starting with no more than 5%, and consider adding 10–20g of additional water since many of these flours absorb water differently.

Notes on the preferment (poolish)

A poolish is a type of preferment that is typically equal parts flour and water with a small amount of yeast or sourdough starter. In this case, the poolish is slightly thicker (~79% vs 100% hydration, based on the Apizza Scholls recipes I've found). The poolish aids in fermentation and improves the flavor and texture of the dough. If your kitchen is warmer than 70°F, your poolish may mature faster — keep an eye on it to avoid over-fermentation.

If you don't use a poolish, just add the poolish ingredients straight into the final dough; bulk fermentation may take a bit longer. Also, if you're using yeast instead of sourdough, the poolish will likely take less time to develop.

Dough recipe

Preferment (poolish)

• Bread flour: 174g
• Leavening: 50g ripe sourdough or 0.5–1g active dry yeast
• Water (at 90–100°F): 137g

Directions: Mix thoroughly in a sealable container at least triple the volume of the contents. Cover and set aside at room temperature (65–75°F) for 10–18 hours, or until at least doubled and very active looking.

Final dough

• Bread flour: 695g
• Diastatic malt powder: 1–2g (optional²)
• Water: 410g (63%)
• Salt: 15g
• Yeast: 25–50g ripe sourdough or 0.43–0.87g active dry yeast

Making the dough

1. Mix the poolish. Combine the poolish ingredients thoroughly in a sealable container that's at least triple the volume of the contents.
2. Ferment the poolish. Cover and set aside in a dark, 65–75°F spot until it has at least doubled or tripled in size and looks bubbly and airy (8–16 hours). Don't worry about being a bit over or under — as long as you see significant activity.
3. Mix the final dough. Combine the final dough water and flour with the preferment in a stand mixer or large bowl until you have a shaggy dough with no visible dry flour (about 2–4 minutes).
4. Cover with a kitchen towel and let sit for 20–45 minutes. This lets the dough hydrate (autolyse) and will make it much easier to work with.
5. Incorporate the salt. Sprinkle the salt evenly over the dough.

   • Stand mixer: Mix on speed 1 or 2 for 4–6 minutes until the salt is fully integrated and the dough looks smooth. Remove and knead by hand for an additional 2–3 minutes.
   • By hand: Knead for about 5–8 minutes until the salt is fully integrated and the dough is smooth.
6. Stretch and folds. Form the dough into a tight ball in a lightly oiled bowl. Cover and rest 30 minutes, then perform one round of stretch and folds. Repeat 2–3 more times, once every 30 minutes.
7. Continue bulk fermentation.

   • Sourdough: After stretch and folds, let the dough sit covered for another 1–2 hours (until 1.5–2× original size). Optional: additional stretch and folds every 30 minutes for stronger dough³.
   • Yeast: Once stretch and folds are complete, you can end bulk fermentation and move to dividing.
8. Portion the dough. This recipe yields enough for three 16″ pizzas (~475g each). Cut the dough into pieces and fold each into a tight ball with a small seam on the bottom and good tension on the surface.
9. Cold-proof the dough. Place each dough ball in a lightly oiled container about 2–3 times the volume of the dough ball. Seal and refrigerate for 24–72 hours. I prefer about 48 hours, but anywhere from 12 hours to 5 days will work.

Prepping the final dough

At ~63% hydration, this dough is fairly easy to handle. Unlike the much higher-hydration New Haven–style dough (which can be sticky and tear easily), you can comfortably stretch and shape this one by hand. A 475g dough ball should yield a 15–16″ crust. Coat your dough ball and work surface generously with flour and/or semolina before stretching.

Baking

This recipe works best in a high-temperature pizza oven, but you can also get good results with a home oven cranked to its highest setting and using a pizza steel or stone. If you don't have a steel, stone, or pizza oven, you can turn 2–3 large baking sheets upside down as a makeshift stone.

Pizza oven

1. Preheat the oven floor to about 650–800°F (use the higher end if you plan to cook multiple pizzas).
2. Launch the pizza from a well-floured peel.⁴
3. Cook for 4–6 minutes, turning as needed if the pizza cooks unevenly.
4. Remove the pizza and cool on a rack for 2–5 minutes.
5. Optional: If the top isn't as cooked as you'd like, return it to the oven for an extra 1–2 minutes. In a wood-fired dome oven, lift the pizza close to the dome on a metal peel for 10–30 seconds. Letting it cool slightly before this final sear gives the crust extra crunch — similar to a slice shop reheat.

Home oven

1. Preheat to the highest setting (typically 500–550°F) with a pizza stone or steel one rack above the middle.
2. Once heated, wait an additional 10–30 minutes to ensure the stone/steel is fully up to temperature.
3. Launch the pizza from a well-floured peel.⁴
4. Cook for 5–8 minutes, turning as needed for even browning.
5. Remove and cool on a rack for 2–5 minutes.
6. Optional: For a more well-done top, turn on your broiler for 30 seconds to 2 minutes. Letting the pizza cool slightly first adds extra crunch, mimicking a slice shop reheat.